Critic Kathryn Robinson writes, "The high-ceilinged, tall-windowed Belltown room is elegant in a white, fin-de-siècle way; its food, comforting Americana fare achieved through newfangled molecular methods, is even more so. Chefs Dana Tough and Brian McCracken apply their prodigious gastronomic talents (Spur, Tavern Law) to lunches, brunches, and dinners that recast grub like poutine, grilled rib eye, and mac ’n’ cheese into models of scrupulous sourcing and precise execution. They don’t ask how you’d like your steak cooked because they’re going to cook it the way it tastes best—and thanks to its precision cooking, horseradish pudding (made with molecular gastronomy’s favorite thickener, gellan gum, but nobody has to know), and greaseless Walla Walla sweet onion rings, “best” is indeed the word that will come to mind." (Photo by Olivia Brent).
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